Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cusco. Show all posts

Monday, November 24, 2008

Street Vendors *Updated*


In Cusco, a popular tourist destination, street vendors are on you the moment you step outside the airport doors. They are in the streets, in the square, outside the cafes, and in the shops. They would follow you to your room if the hotel staff didn't run them off. To call them street vendors may be kind - they are more like assault troops, and "No, gracias" doesn't phase them. That just gives them a clue that you are not a native Spanish speaker, so they switch to English and keep right on.

If you keep walking, they walk right along with you saying things like, "I worry for you Meester, I pray for you Meester." Or, "Remember me? I remember you." Which is not so hard for them when one of the party looks like Santa Claus - a fact which was pointed out by more than one vendor. They have dolls, or crocheted finger puppets, or portfolios of drawings and sketches, or boards of jewelry, and heaven help you if you do pause to look at their wares. This is a signal for all nearby vendors to come rushing to this easy mark; once we thought we had precipitated an international incident when three vendors began a big quarrel over who spotted us first.

The vendors in the shops surrounding the square are no better; if you show any interest whatsoever, they begin pulling out their "best" stuff; if you look at a particular item the bargaining is on. "How much will you pay, Meester? You tell me how much!" We did a little bargaining, or rather I did a little bargaining - Mom is not an enthusiastic bargainer. When I would counter with a price, the look of horror on their faces would convey that you weren't bargaining - you were trying to rob them! As all good bargainers know, walking away is the ultimate weapon. If they don't follow you then you knew they truly thought you were trying to rob them.

I finally came up with a defense against street vendors. Whenever one approached and began their spiel, I would go into gibberish mode: "Nay, nay! Bltz da nghu mker thaa gndst!" They knew it wasn't Spanish, and evidently I didn't speak English, so they had no response. They usually just stood and watched us walk away. Yes!

But our last purchase in Peru was from a street vendor. Mom was looking for an Aztec calendar pendant. We had been to several shops the night before without finding what she wanted, so we were out early on the last morning continuing the search. The vendors know, however that Gringos are not early risers, so all the shops were closed. Finally, we sat on a park bench to enjoy the morning and a little lady came up with a board of jewelry. We bargained a little and came home with our prize, thanks to an eager street vendor.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Sipping Cocoa tea


Cusco - the launching point for visiting Machu Picchu - sits on a mountain top in the Andes at an average elevation of 11,000 feet. This is treeline in Colorado; by comparison, Leadville is some 1,000 feet lower.

All of the tourist information cautions that one should not fly directly into Cusco and expect to be able to immediately do active things - like walk, or breath. One should - the books suggest - take a day or so to acclimate before trying anything strenuous, like sitting up on the side of the bed. So how did we approach this part of our journey? Flew into Cusco on Saturday afternoon and climbed to Machu Picchu early the next morning.

The primary danger in suddenly finding oneself at this elevation is High Altitude Sickness. Headaches, nausea, flu-like symptoms. Ask our teammate Russell about HAS. The hotels even keep oxygen bottles around to revive their guests. They also have the native remedy for altitude-related problems. Cocoa tea. Just as soon as you get to the hotel, the staff begins pouring Cocoa tea down you. Or if you prefer, there's a bowl of Cocoa leaves you can chew on. The indigenous population swears by this remedy. And there's a reason for that; the stuff is... how shall I put this... addictive. I wonder what's in it?

Out for a stroll? Head for the Cocoa tea as soon as you get back. Going out to shop? Better have a cup before we go. Make that two cups. To give you an idea of just how appealing this stuff is, consider my spouse. The only other time I can remember her trying hot tea was in England and that was because she couldn't get anything else. She was not converted. But this?

"Tea, my love?"
"Thanks, don't mind if I do."
"May I have another cup, please?"
"Let's take a cup and go sit on the balcony; it's so relaxing."

You can take medicine to ward off HAS; we started on it prior to going to Cusco, but it makes your hands tingle - really, really tingle - and carbonated beverages taste like battery acid while you are on the meds. I had forgotten that was one of the side effects and ordered a bottled coke. I thought the wait staff was trying to poison me! Next time I think I'll skip the pills and go straight for the native cure.

You can buy Cocoa tea bags in the marketplace, and it was tempting, but I was reminded how much trouble I have with customs anyway, and I could just picture some stateside drug-sniffing dog turning back flips, so we sipped our last cups on the way to the airport.

I could really go for a hot cup of tea right now.