Street Vendors *Updated*

In Cusco, a popular tourist destination, street vendors are on you the moment you step outside the airport doors. They are in the streets, in the square, outside the cafes, and in the shops. They would follow you to your room if the hotel staff didn't run them off. To call them street vendors may be kind - they are more like assault troops, and "No, gracias" doesn't phase them. That just gives them a clue that you are not a native Spanish speaker, so they switch to English and keep right on.

If you keep walking, they walk right along with you saying things like, "I worry for you Meester, I pray for you Meester." Or, "Remember me? I remember you." Which is not so hard for them when one of the party looks like Santa Claus - a fact which was pointed out by more than one vendor. They have dolls, or crocheted finger puppets, or portfolios of drawings and sketches, or boards of jewelry, and heaven help you if you do pause to look at their wares. This is a signal for all nearby vendors to come rushing to this easy mark; once we thought we had precipitated an international incident when three vendors began a big quarrel over who spotted us first.

The vendors in the shops surrounding the square are no better; if you show any interest whatsoever, they begin pulling out their "best" stuff; if you look at a particular item the bargaining is on. "How much will you pay, Meester? You tell me how much!" We did a little bargaining, or rather I did a little bargaining - Mom is not an enthusiastic bargainer. When I would counter with a price, the look of horror on their faces would convey that you weren't bargaining - you were trying to rob them! As all good bargainers know, walking away is the ultimate weapon. If they don't follow you then you knew they truly thought you were trying to rob them.

I finally came up with a defense against street vendors. Whenever one approached and began their spiel, I would go into gibberish mode: "Nay, nay! Bltz da nghu mker thaa gndst!" They knew it wasn't Spanish, and evidently I didn't speak English, so they had no response. They usually just stood and watched us walk away. Yes!

But our last purchase in Peru was from a street vendor. Mom was looking for an Aztec calendar pendant. We had been to several shops the night before without finding what she wanted, so we were out early on the last morning continuing the search. The vendors know, however that Gringos are not early risers, so all the shops were closed. Finally, we sat on a park bench to enjoy the morning and a little lady came up with a board of jewelry. We bargained a little and came home with our prize, thanks to an eager street vendor.